A Doorway to Norway

By Dr Dave Monks

As a ships doctor, I was on the Saga Rose when we visited the Norwegian fjords. After the huge Sognefjord, we traveled further North to Geiranger, at the far end of the winding Geirangerfjorden. A small village surrounded by high peaks with access by two roads, one northwards down the all weather twisting Eagle’s Road, and the older, summer only road which plunges  down from the top of Mount Dalsnibba, about 5000 feet high.. The weather was perfect, clear and sunny with snow covered peaks, even in summer.

 
1. Eagles Road.
I am by no means a keen cyclist, but when in port I enjoying taking the bike out for a bit of sight-seeing. I cycled around the village and the edge of the fjord, but this did not take long, so I decided to hitch a ride on the tourist bus going up the mountain  and then ‘ride’ back. Naturally, downhill is always easier than uphill, so this seemed a good choice. As the kilometers passed and the road became steeper, more winding then reached the snowy saddle,  I became much more apprehensive. We finally stopped after about 17Km, snow, near a frozen lake and I disembarked amongst the guffaws from the passengers.
 
2. Mt. Dalnibba, 1500 metres asl
 Equipped with shorts and polo shirt,  a camera borrowed from a passenger and lots of enthusiasm, but little else, I set off.

What followed what the most exhilarating ride I have ever experienced. Starting off slowly, with snow banks at the side of the road, then a series of bends constantly descending. I was traveling at about the same speed as the cars, which thankfully were rare. I had no experience or knowledge of descending hairpin bends at speed, but soon learnt a rough technique but not before I had frightened several ascending motorists . Pausing occasionally to view the scenery and take photos, it was certainly not exhausting physically. Going through the tundra, then  past tumbling waterfalls of ice cold water and spindly trees. After about 10Km , I stopped off at the lookout for stunning views down the Flydaljuvet gorge down to the fjord, then onwards and downward .
 

3. Flydjuvet lookout.
After the last of the 11 hairpin bends, a brief rest at the old octagonal wooden church above the village before cruising down to the wharf having only taken 30 minutes to descend from snow to sea.

I found out later there is a commercial operation that does this ride, as a group with proper safety gear and modern steeds, but I still preferred my way.